Sonntag, 27. März 2016

The Legend and History of Timor Leste


"The Crocodile legend from East Timor" by
Alexandra Agostinho da Silva


   If you would ask a Timorese about the Legend on how their Land came about they would probably tell you something like this:


Many years ago a small crocodile lived in a swamp in a far away place. He dreamed of becoming a big crocodile but, as food was scarce, he became weak and grew sadder and sadder.
He left for the open sea, to find food and realise his dream, but the day became increasingly hot and he was still far from the seashore. The little crocodile – rapidly drying out and now in desperation – lay down to die.
A small boy took pity on the stranded crocodile and carried him to the sea. The crocodile, instantly revived, was grateful. “Little boy”, he said, “you have saved my life. If I can ever help you in any way, please call me. I will be at your command…”
A few years later, the boy called the crocodile, who was now big and strong. “Brother Crocodile”, he said, “I too have a dream. I want to see the world”.
“Climb on my back,” said the crocodile, “and tell me, which way do you want to go?”
“Follow the sun”, said the boy.
The crocodile set off for the east, and they traveled the oceans for years, until one day the crocodile said to the boy, “Brother, we have travelled for a long time. But now the time has come for me to die. In memory of your kindness, I will turn myself into a beautiful island, where you and your children can live until the sun sinks in the sea.”
As the crocodile died, he grew and grew, and his rigid back became the mountains and his scales the hills of Timor.
Now when the people of East Timor swim in the ocean, they enter the water saying “Don’t eat me crocodile, I am your relative”.



   Up to this day, many people still belief that the crocodile is part of their relatives. So if you jump into the sea, which happens, and you get eaten/bitten by one, which also happens, you must be bad because your relative would never hurt you if you were good...

If you are blessed with a good imagination, "the crocodile"


  History was never my favorite subject but it often plays a vital role when it comes to understanding a culture. So does geography and that's where I want to start.  

map from
http://www.freeworldmaps.net/asia/easttimor/map.html

   

   The island of Timor is located towards the eastern end of the Indonesian island chain running from Malaya through Sumatra and Java, New Guinea. The island is divided into two parts. Most of the western half remains part of Indonesia. The eastern half forms the largest part of the national territory of Timor, with its capital, Dili, on the north coast, a small enclave on the western half around the city of Oecussi and Atauro small island, 30 km north of Dili. Much of the country is mountainous, and its highest point is Tatamailau or Mount Ramelau at 2,963 meters . 
   The climate is tropical and generally hot and humid. It is characterized by distinct rainy and dry seasons.It has a total area of 15'874 sq/km and as of June 2015 a population of 1.2 Millions+. Average age is 18, 40% of the population is under 15 and 60% under 25 years old. The majority of the people are Catholics (app. 97%), Protestant/Evangelical (2%), Muslim (0.3%) form the minority and there is a good amount of animism mixed and hard rooted into all religions mentioned above.
   Tetum is the official language but schools and government mostly uses Portuguese books. The majority of people are able to speak Bahasa/Indonesian and some understand English. But if you travel around Timor you will notice that there are 8 other indigenous languages. Deb and I are still at the very beginning with our Tetum and we are suppose to start a language training soonisch... ;-)
   As far as economy goes, the country relies heavily on crud petroleum and coffee. The 2 offshore oil fields, located in the Timor Sea, are already more than 70% extracted of oil and gas reserves. In addition to that came the unexpected oil price drop of 45% in 2014. This leads Timor-Leste to a very challenging future with a lot of young people but not much employment or education opportunities.


http://atlas.media.mit.edu/en/profile/country/tls/
 
  Now to the boring part, history. You will find a much more indept report on wikipedia but I will do my best to keep it short here. 

  Portuguese settle in - Not much is known of Timor before 1500
AD. Portuguese traders arrived between 1509 and 1511, and in 1556 a handful of missionaries established the first Portuguese settlement in the Oecussi enclave.

  World War II - The Allies were engaged in heavy fighting with the Japanese forces in Timor. They received support from locals, for whom the cost was tremendous. Several thousand East Timorese lost their lives fighting alongside the Allies. The Japanese defeated the Allies in February 1942 and controlled Timor until Portuguese rule was restored in Timor-Leste in 1945.

  Portuguese pull out and Indonesia invades -  Following a coup in April 1974, Portugal set about discarding its colonial empire. Within a few weeks, political parties had been formed in East Timor, and the Timorese Democratic Union attempted to seize power in August 1975. A brief civil war saw its rival Fretilin come out on top, declaring the independent existence of the Democratic Republic of East Timor on 28 November.
But Indonesia opposed the formation of an independent East Timor, and on 7 December launched its attack on Dili. By 1976 there were 35,000 Indonesian troops in East Timor. The cost of the brutal takeover to the East Timorese was huge; it's estimated that at least 100, 000 died in the hostilities, and ensuing disease and famine.
By 1989, Indonesia had things firmly under control and opened East Timor to tourism. Then, on 12 November 1991 Indonesian troops fired on protesters gathered at the Santa Cruz Cemetery in Dili to commemorate the killing of an independence activist. With the event captured on film and aired around the world, the embarrassed Indonesian government admitted to 19 killings, although it's estimated that over 200 died in the massacre.
While Indonesia introduced a civilian administration, the military remained in control. Aided by secret police and civilian Timorese militia to crush dissent, reports of arrest, torture and murder were numerous.

  Independence - Timorese hopes for independence remained high, but Indonesia showed no signs of making concessions until the fall of the Soeharto regime. Shortly after taking office in May 1998, Soeharto's successor, President Habibie, unexpectedly announced a referendum for East Timorese autonomy. On 30 August 1999, East Timor voted overwhelmingly (78.5%) for independence from, rather than autonomy within, Indonesia. Though the Indonesian government promised to respect the results of the UN-sponsored vote, military-backed Timorese militias massacred, burnt and looted the country.
International condemnation led to UN troops bringing peace to East Timor beginning in September 1999. Half a million people had been displaced, and telecommunications, power installations, bridges, government buildings, shops and houses were destroyed. Today these scars are everywhere.
The UN set up a temporary administration during the transition to independence, and aid and foreign workers flooded into the country. As well as physically rebuilding the country, East Timor has had to create a civil service, police, judiciary, education, health system and so on, with staff recruited and trained from scratch.
The UN handed over government to East Timor on 20 May 2002. Fretilin military leader Xanana Gusmão was president of the new nation, and Fretilin leader Mari Alkatiri was prime minister.


   I hope that this blog delivered some background information. I promise to bring more pictures and personal insight in future blogs but I belief this was necessary to understand the bigger picture...





Donnerstag, 18. Februar 2016

First steps...

...In the next couple of blogs we will take you on our journey. Starting on where we live, what life looks like and what we do.


    So let's get started, Deb and I arrived at Dili International by mid September 2015 and we were warmly welcomed by the MAF-Staff. The team consisted of 2 pilots and 2 aircrafts. One pilot is also the program-manager and the other one a mechanic.
    Our future house was still occupied when we arrived but we were able to stay with another MAF-Family for the first week. Being new to this 3rd World country easily exceeded the amount we could possibly absorb. We heard, saw and smelled things we couldn't put in any box. There are  lots of things we couldn't connect with any prior experience, it feels like walking on the moon but without a space suite ;-)

    The house we got to live in is located right at the beach of Beto Tasi, a "suburb" of Dili. Beto Tasi is a quiet neighborhood with only one dirt road leading in but it becomes a maze after the first junction....

Finding our house was not always accomplished by the 1st attempt.
Our little pink one room 6/7meter house, from above not bad...
...but from the inside, it was desperately asking for paint
...so we painted
Our kitchen when we moved in...
...couple of days off...
...a bit more useful

After that we built a small extension.

2 timorese workers helped me...
...up to the point when I started to pay them in advance...
...building the roof, windows and door was then up to me ;-)
Then I found a little painter...
Then my brother arrived for Christmas and new year and I got another one, a painter I mean.

old rusty security bars got a new look...
...and also the outside, from pink to white.
et voilà, thanks to the help of my brother all done now.
All done, well not quite. Here are some future projects.


The Landlady asked me to cut the trees, not because they are blue now,
no because they were growing to big and endangered our roof
Our garden is waiting to be cultivated. At the moment it only
bears pineapple and papaya...
Our water tower needs some attention too. Too many mosquito larvaes and dirt
blocking our filter...
    As you can see we won't get bored anytime soon. We truly like it here but not everything that shines is gold. Yes we live close to the beach and it can be wonderful if the current is flowing in the right direction, otherwise we get all the sewage from Dili then it becomes slightly less wonderful. Yes the people are friendly, but you will always be the rich "Malae" which gets ripped off in a very friendly way all the times. If you are involved in a traffic accident, the question is not who is responsible but rather who is the one with the money and that is and always will be us. Therefore I came to the conclusion; no matter where you are and what you do, every coin has a flip side. Deb and I feel that we are in the right place at the right time and that's all that matters...

    In this sense, Deb and I are exited to take you with us on our journey through Timor Leste - Where people don't possess much but have a lot of time.

Mittwoch, 6. Januar 2016

2015...

...lies in the past and we are looking back to a very adventurous and challenging 12months. We lived in 4 different countries and moved more than 10 times. Therefore I think it's worth taking a walk down memory lane...
     It all started in autumn 2014 when Deb and I got married. After a Honeymoon trip across Sardinia, France and Belgium we ended up in the northern part of England. For the next 6 months we would reside in a castle and attend a winter Bible School. Capernwray Hall left a huge impact in our lives, we received a vast amount of spiritual knowledge which changed our lifestyle and the way we see things. It also gave us the opportunity to explore places like Edinburgh, Wales and London.

Capernwray Hall, an amazing time

A few days in a wonderful city

10 Day outreach together with a loving church
 
Spending Christmas with our best friends and family in London



    Spring finally pushed the winter away and similarly were we pushed away from Capernwray Hall into a new season, a future full of challenges and adventures waiting to be explored. Therefore we packed our car and headed south to Switzerland and spent April and May with packing our belongings together, sorting out all the required paperwork and of course vaccinations. lot's of vaccinations...
     Then just 3 weeks before departure we got a surprise email informing us, that we won't be able to go to Arnhem Land due to visa troubles. Our alternatives were South Sudan or Papua New Guinea. Final decision was made and we were told to go to Timor-Leste. Where is that again?
    It was also the time to say goodbye. Goodbye to our families, friends, church and Switzerland. For the next two years we wouldn't see any of them unless they visit us.

wonderful but to short


     The 26th May approached with big steps and before we even realized we sat in an Airbus which brought us via Doha and Hong Kong to Cairns, Australia. We arrived 4:30 in the morning and my aviation medical exam was at 9:00. I couldn't get bothered pointing out the directions of the E's which all looked like O's, but I really had no choice :-/
    Our plan was to stay for 3 months in Australia and go through 4 blocks of trainings. 2 were about flying and 2 field training. During this time we stayed in 12 different places and lived out of our suitcases. Most of our training was done in Cairns and Mareeba which is located in the north-eastern part of Australia. While on a 2 week training in Melbourne we managed to get 5 days off and made a road trip on the great ocean road.  

They have summer in the winter and it's called the land down under

Cairns, one of the places we stayed.

The great ocean road

Were very lucky to get that close to a wild Kuala :-)

Training, training and training


     And it was time to say goodbye again. We met many new people and became especially good friends with another Swiss couple which went through the same trainings as we did. But we were excited to finally move to a place where we could settle down for a while and get our first place together as a married couple.
     The beginning was steep. Various events set us under time pressure but the team managed to push us through district- and flight orientation just on time. Daniel loved being back in the cockpit although flying medevacs is a category of it's own. Live and death are often separated by a very thin wall and mistakes can easily lead to a turn to the worse. Deb was busy with homeschooling our neighbors kids and taking care of the the household. She has now a new opportunity to work once a week in a day care facility for people with special needs.
 
They have summer all year round

A medevac from Suai

Little fellas checking out the "machine"

Wet-season makes everything green

In front of our house, wonderful



     What about the future? We don't know. The only sure thing is that there's nothing like a sure thing. The Government bought a brand new Twin Otter last October and is now operating it, heavily subsidized and with a Canadian crew, around Timor-Leste. Other rumors are going around about another new plane... So far MAF is the only organization which can fly medevac and will keep working with the Ministry of Health to bring critical patients from the districts to the Hospital in Dili. 
   To predict MAF's future here in Timor-Leste is challenging but we are happy to serve here as long as we are needed. Deb and I are glad, that our contract for the Timor-Leste program got extended until next September. This gives us time to rest and gather our strength for whatever may come...


Our GA-8 landing in Oecussi, the Twin Otter is waiting to depart






MAF Flyer
The last edition of "Flying for Life" with an
interesting article abou Timor-Lest


Sonntag, 11. Oktober 2015

Arrived on the Island



      As you can guess from the title, we are now well into week 4 since we got washed ashore on these southeastern Asian island. The Australian Authorities finally recognized Daniels American license and he was able to finish the last Test which consisted out of an oral exam and a 3 hours flight test. Shortly after he passed we stood with our boarding passes and too much luggage at the Cairns Airport. We arrived in Dili just 3 days after our belongings from Switzerland arrived. They were missent to Indonesia and we have still no clue how they arrived all of a sudden. Must have been a miracle :-)

Bye bye Mareeba


     Our start was quite challenging, Deb arrived with a flu and here asthma was interupting here sleep. Dan got thrown right into action and joined a couple flights as an observer. On the first weekend we had our District Orientation with Mike and Mange. They are missionaries from Papua New Guinea and have been living in Liquica for the past 5 years. People leave really remote and primitive outside the city.They might have power and a satellite dish but their income is limited to a few dollars a day. 

Village house

Street Restaurant, limited to 75Kg per Person ;-)

One man salt factory, 1 basket of salt = 5 Dollar


Us with Mike and Mange, in front of a rice field





     Once back from the district orientation we were able to move into our beach house which just became vacant a couple days ago. It is a one room cabin located in Beto-Tasi, Dili right next to a so-called Beach-Resort. The street to our house leads literally across the airport area and a cemetery.
     Deb started here job as a home school teacher in the same week. She is homeschooling 2 kids just 3 houses down the beach. speaking of a perfect location...
     Flying wise we were quite under pressure. Dan was waiting for his license to arrive so he could start flying and at the same time the Program Manager had a well deserved vacation coming up. The license got issued in record time (within 5 days, normally it takes 4-6 weeks, another miracle?) and Dan spent his second week as ICUS (in command under supervision) and Michael was able to check him out on 6 out of 8 airstrips. From week 3 He was flying by himself and had 2 Medevacs in the first 2 days.

Loading the Patient in Suai
 
our beach house in Beto-Tasi, Dili

from the outside...


The interior desperately needed some paint (and other things ;-)

Our Beach, visitors welcome










click here